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Lonely Planet Nepal Trekking and Climbing in NepalLonely Planet - Trekking in NepalOn Foot around the AnnapurnasTrekking in the Annapurna RegionThe Trekking Peaks of Nepal Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000m PeakTrekking in the Annapurna Region


The Circuit of Mount Annapurna:

" The Coca-Cola Trail "

The 220 mile trek around the great, semi-circular, multi-summitted Annapurna Massif takes some 20 days to complete and is one of the classic journeys through the Nepal Himalaya.

Manaslu Himal from Marsayangdi Valley

Manaslu Himal from Marsayangdi Valley

Starting amid lush, sub-tropical rice-paddies the route follows the course of the Marsayangdi Khola ( river ) on primitive trails through small farming settlements and alpine forests of fir and pine to the arctic tundra of the yak pastures surrounding the medieval village of Manang nestling beneath the huge ice-fall tumbling from the giant, 7000 metre Gangapurna.

Beyond Manang the crux of the trek is the high-level crossing of the snow-covered Tharong La to reach an arid, wind-swept, mountain-desert region in the upper valley of the Kali Gandaki.

Upper Kali Gandaki Valley on descent from Tharong La

Upper Kali Gandaki Valley

 on descent from Tharong La


From the sacred temple at Muktinath the return leg heads down-river on the trade route from Tibet via the caravanserai of Jomson and Tukuche through the deepest gorge in the world between the two 8000 metre peaks of Annapurna ( the world's 10th highest mountain ) and Dhaulagiri ( the world's 7th highest mountain ) to finish at Phewa Tal ( lake ) on the outskirts of Pokhara - the second city of Nepal.

It was my first visit to Nepal and at our trek starting point at the ancient royal city of Gorkha ( the origin of the illustrious Gurkas ) I suffered from both anticipation and apprehension of what was to follow. The thought of being up to 10 days away from the nearest roadhead was daunting - in Scotland and the Alps the most had been only a couple of days. Another member of our group, Judith, a doctor from the USA, was also concerned and her backpack was extra heavy with medicines squeezed in around her clothes and snowshoes for all eventualities.

Annapurna III from Manang Valley

Annapurna III from Manang Valley

As we headed up the scenic valley on narrow trails beneath high rock walls and lofty snow peaks, criss-crossing from bank to bank on long, swaying, suspension bridges, the tension in our party increased as we progressed towards the huddle of flat-roofed houses of Manang. Rumours circulated of an early snowfall blocking the pass, disconsolate trekkers were met returning having been defeated by altitude sickness.

Annapurna Himal from Manang Valley

Annapurna Himal from Manang Valley

Our group leader, Phil did not help morale; " If you don't make it over the pass you won't see your kitbags, being carried by our porters, again until Kathmandu!".

My daysac was therefore at its heaviest for the 1000 metre climb over steep scree and snow slopes to the col at 5500 metres - some 2,000 feet higher than my previous best on 4800 metre Mont Blanc.

Tharong La and Tharong Peak on descent from Muktinath

Tharong La and Tharong Peak

on descent from Muktinath


However, by late evening, everyone, including Jack, a 60-years-old Irishman, had successfully struggled into the walled, fortress-like camping ground at Muktinath. We had enjoyed perfect conditions but others have not been so fortunate. On a previous occasion a party of four Sherpas had died in a vain attempt to secure help for their group snowbound on their attempt at crossing the pass. Poorly clad porters have also succumbed to exposure and hypothermia.

From the pagoda-style temple with its sacred water spouts and natural gas flame a dramatic view unfolds of the barren moonscape of the upper Kali Gandaki valley and the huge, white dome of Dhaulagiri looming far to the south.

Dhaulagiri on ascent to Gorapani

Dhaulagiri on ascent to Gorapani

The numerous small, simple lodges in the Kali Gandaki valley originally served as overnight staging posts for porters and pony caravans carrying goods on the trade route to and from Tibet but are now the haven of 'tea-shop' trekkers and the route between Pokhara and Jomson, the most popular in Nepal, is now known as the 'Coca-Cola trail'.

A long uphill slog from the riverside at Tatopani to the col at Gorapani is alleviated by superb views of Dhaulagiri and its neighbouring Tukuche Peak rising sheer above the valley floor. Poon Hill, a short climb above Gorapani, provides an even better vantage point to witness the great peaks flame red in the rays of the rising or setting sun.

Annapurna Himal and Macchapucchre from Phewa Tal at Pokhara

Annapurna Himal and Macchapucchre

from Phewa Tal at Pokhara


However the finest panorama is saved for the end of the trek in Pokhara. On a clear day, from the dam on Phewa Tal, the entire northern horizon is lined with mighty peaks ranging from Dhaulagiri in the west through Annapurna South Peak, Hiunchuli, Annapurna I, Macchapuchre ( the 'Fish-tail mountain' ), Annapurna III, Annapurna II and Lamjung Himal terminating with Manaslu Himal in the east.

As customary our trekking crew and porters were well rewarded with generous backsheesh ( money presents ) for their stalwart efforts in ensuring the success of our trek while our sirdar Ang Jangbu drew lots to allocate the donations we also made of clothing and trekking gear. Most, but not all, of Judith's medicines had been used to treat local villagers in evening surgeries at our camping places .


Article in the Milngavie & Bearsden Herald, January 15 1988:-


Alan Ingram of North Grange Road, Bearsden has just returned from an adventurous trip in Kathmandu trekking through the
Himalayas and around Annapurna. Ventures such as this are not new to the intrepid Alan who was once a Venture Scout unit leader. Alan has
sent reports to the Herald of venture Scouts visits to the Alps among others.
Alan was educated at Allan Glen’s School in Glasgow and graduated from Glasgow University with honours in Physics.
Among appointments since then he has been senior lecturer in Computer Studies at Bell College, Hamilton, and Chief Examiner with
Scotvec. Alan gave the following account of his recent trek in the Himalayas to the Herald.


From Kathmandu it took nine hours by bus over rough pot-holed roads to reach Gorka, home town of the Ghurkas and the starting
point for our 23-day trek around the Himalayan range of Annapurna. The route followed one river valley, the Marsyangdi Khola, upstream to the
village of Manang, then over the snow covered Thorung La pass at a height of 17,700 ft. (5500m) and down a second river valley, the Kali Gandaki, to the town of Pokhara to complete the 220 mile circuit of the 8000m high massif of Annapurna.
The trek was in the classic expedition style. Our group of l4 trekkers ( two Scots, two Americans, one lrish, nine English ) were the
‘clients’ supported by the Trekking Crew. The Sirdar, Ang Jangbu, was in charge of the trekking crew which comprised a team of
Sherpas, the cook squad and a team of porters. Our five Sherpas were a cheerful, friendly, seemingly indefatigable group who acted as guides during
the trek: one leading the way, two in the middle of the party, and two at the rear acting as “sweepers” to bring in tail-enders. They also pitched and took down the tents and acted as “waiters” in the mess tent at meal times.

Although the porters were somewhat diminutive in stature they carried prodigious loads of around l00lbs, eg three kitbags of 30lbs. Each huge load was surmounted by a small bag containing their own meagre personal items. At the start of the trek the porters numbered 36 but, as our food supplies were consumed, they were paid off until only 14 remained at the end in Pokhara.
The cook and his four cook boys were the busiest members of the party. A typical day would begin at 6am with “bed—tea“ being
served in the tents by the Sherpas. This was followed by basins of hot water for washing. Breakfast was served at 7am but only after
all kitbags had been packed, the tents taken down and the porters loads made up.
The daily trekking started with a walk of about an hour and a half to a convenient tea-house until overtaken by the cook squad who proceeded
ahead. A further 2 hours walking reached the selected spot where the cooks were already preparing lunch. In the afternoon the same pattern
was repeated before reaching the night’s campsite. Tea was served soon after arriving in camp to be followed by dinner in the mess tent at about 1800
hours. As darkness soon fell most of us retired before 20.00 hours.

We were extremely fortunate to have an excellent chef ( Dendi ) who managed to produce some incredible masterpieces from his open
wood fireplace. Other parties we met were not so lucky and complained of never changing meals of rice and dhaal (a lentil sauce), the staple diet of
Nepal. A wide variety of climate and terrain was experienced on the trek. From Gorka the trail led through warm, humid, sub-tropical
forrests and extensive rice fields. Numerous primitive villages with thatched roofed houses were passed where we were greeted by
youngsters with shouts of “Namaste (hello)” and “Have you a pen”. The development of Education and a Health Service are
currently two of the major priorities in Nepal. (Two of the things taken for granted in this country). The extent to which a Health Service
should be provided is a matter of debate, at present, it is very much a question of survival of the fittest.
As we progressed upstream and gained height the valley narrowed, the rice fields became terraced, many spectacular waterfalls
were seen and many long suspension footbridges had to be crossed. The alarming amount of swaying was augmented on some of the
older bridges by missing or broken planking. At times the track was a narrow stone stairway winding up and down hills or along
cliffsides overlooking raging torrents in deep gorges far below; at other times a broad flat path through wide valleys with the river flowing quietly.
After several days walking we had reached a height of over 2000 metres and the scenery was now Alpine in nature: green grassy meadows, pine
forests and views of snow capped peaks. The influence of nearby Tibet was also becoming apparent. Stone built flat roofed houses, mani walls
with prayer wheels or stone prayei; tablets, chorten in the forms of archways at the entrance to villages and brightly painted gompas
(temples) with their white prayer flags were much in evidence.

At this stage our porters were issued with their cold weather clothing. This consisted of white woollen hats, gloves and socks, heavy shirts and long
trousers of local tartan cloth, and a pair of green canvas boots. Hitherto they had been in shorts and most had been barefoot.
The scenery on the final days approach to Manang at the head of the valley was magnificent. Reaching a col a vast panorama stretched
out ahead. The giant peaks of the Annapurna massif towered above on the southern side while on the Tibetan northem side the
arid, sparsely vegetated valley was bounded by weird cliffs of yellow rock eroded into dramatic pillars. Further up the valley a huge ice fall
descended to the village of Manang from the 24,000 ft. summits immediately above.
ln Manang we made our l0th camp. The village was a compact group of some 500 flat roofed stone houses separated by narrow snow-filled alleyways. As with other villages we passed through an impression of living conditions prevailing many hundreds of years ago in mediaeval times was
gained. It was cold and dismal when the sun went down.

Leaving Manang we encountered groups of despondent trekkers making their way back down. Some had suffered from high altitude
(mountain) sickness and could not risk going any higher. Other groups were frustrated in their ambition to cross the pass by their
porter’s refusal to endure the cold and the snow. We had also heard reports of the pass having been blocked by heavy snowfall
a week earlier with rumoured fatalities and trekkers getting trapped.
However we were to be for-tunate in all respects: in having ideal conditions; in enjoying a good rapport with our porters; and in
suffering no adverse effects from the altitude.

The trail from Manang towards the pass was steeply ‘uphill but frequent pauses were made to look back on the grandeur of the
Annapurna massif to the South. Higher up we admired the majestic flight of lammergeirs as they soared overhead. A second days climb over a snow
covered trail through a narrow rocky valley brought us to our highest campsite at the hamlet of Phedi at an elevation of 4420m (l4,500ft).
An alpine start at 0200 hrs. was made and we set off under a clear starry sky with a full moon but in sub-zero temperatues. After a
five hour climb up steep scree and snow slopes the summit of the Thorung La pass at 5500m (l7,700ft) was reached at 0700 hrs. just as the first welcome rays of the rising sun were striking the tops of the surrounding peaks. The barren Kali Gandaki valley, our return route South, was
to be seen in the distance far below. Our leisurely descent to the pilgrimage town of Muktinath included a rest at a nicely positioned tea house.
Only recently have trekkers been allowed access to Muktinath which is of major importance to both Buddhists and Hindus having gompas and pagoda
style temples for both religions. An interesting aspect of Buddhism is that there is no word for “thanks” in the Nepali language. Any
gift of clothing made to a porter was received with total impassivity. It is deemed the privilege of the giver to have anything to give and also to increase
prospects for achieving Nirvana. However gratitude was later made abundantly plain in other ways - broader smiles of greeting, extra assistance in
packing and unpacking of kitbags.
From the walled temples a fine view of Dhaulagiri, another 8000m peak, standing in splendid isolation to the West of the Annapurna range, was
obtained.

We descended from Muktinath along a windy, dusty track through a harsh, arid moonscape of yellow, desert-like hillsides with strangely eroded rock
formations, to the broad, flat, washed-out valley floor of the Kali Gandaki which led to the town of Jomson.
lt was only at Manang and Jomson that it would be possible to evacuate any casualties as only at these two places are there STOL airstrips. All other villages could only be accessed by foot or horseback.
At Jomson there was another checkpoint for our trekking permits at the local police station. The allocation of permits is used
to restrict the number of trekkers in any region of Nepal at any given period.
The trail continued to follow the Kali Gandaki downstream passing closely below Dhaulagiri and its icefall, then through a deep
narrow canyon before diverting towards Pokhara.

We were now travelling across the “grain” of the country and two days of steep uphill climbing was followed the next day by
6000ft. of vertical descent. A long pleasant walk along a ridge, giving views of the southern aspect of the Annapurna peaks, followed
by a last downhill stretch and a canoe trip across the lake brought us to the end of our 220 mile trek and final campsite in Pokhara.
The following morning our remaining porters were paid off and handsomely rewarded with generous tips in appreciation of their
efforts. They departed well pleased after handshakes all round to start another trek that same afternoon.
Donations of climbing gear and clothing were sub-divided by the Sirdar and allocated amongst the Sherpas and cook squad by
means of a numbered draw.
On our last evening in camp we were entertained by a display of traditional Sherpa singing and dancing to conclude a memorable
experience of a land of wild mountains and gentle, people.

Note:-

Detailed information ( Map, Itinerary, Route Description ) and a full set of photographs are available on CD Rom


References:-




Annapurna Index : Nepal Climbs & Treks : Nepal Peaks

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Annapurna Adventure MapNepal Himalaya Map 4: Annapurna, Machhapuchhare, Marsyangdi & MuktinathKathmandu Valley Mappanoramic travel map of Kathmanu, Helambu, Langtang & Everest with trekking profiles Himalaya Map - NellesNepal Trail Map - Nelles





Nepal Guide Books & Maps:-


Lonely Planet Nepal Rough Guide Nepal Lonely Planet - Trekking in Nepal Lonely Planet - Kathmandu Lonely Planet Trekking and Climbing in NepalThe Trekking Peaks of Nepal Trekking in NepalTrekking in Nepal - D'Abbundo

Trekking in the Annapurna RegionNepal Mountaineering Guide Trekking in the Everest Region Everest: A Trekkers Guide Trekking in the Everest RegionTrekking in the Annapurna RegionTrekking in the Langtang & Helambu RegionKangchenjunga Trekkers GuideFootprint Nepal

Nepal Handbook by Kerry Moran The Kathmandu Valley Kathmandu Bikes and Hikes Rough Guide India Footprint Tibet Handbook Into Thin Air - John Pilkington Sepu Kangri Bonnington Kurt Diemberger OmnibusBelow another Sky by Rick Ridgeway

Seven Summits - Quest to reach the highest peaks On Top of the World - climbing the 14 highest mountains On Top of the World - Rebecca Stephens High Himalaya 2003 Calendar Annapurna: First Conquest of an 8000m PeakTilman: The 7 Mountain Travel BooksLost Mountains - Climbs in the Himalayas - Stephen Venables A Slender Thread - Escaping Disaster in the Himalayas - Stephen Venables Himalaya Himalaya - Tenzing Norbu Lama The High Himalayas Thin Air - Encounters in the Himalayas - Doug Scott Let's Go India & Nepal Asia & India: Read this firstSeven Summits The Death Zone K2: Challenging the SkyHigh Exposure - David BreashearsEverest: The West RidgeEric Shipton - Everest and beyondEdmund Hillary - View from the SummitKurt Diemberger OmnibusTilman: The 7 Mountain Travel BooksChris Bonington's Everest Mountaineering: Freedom of the HillsRope Techniques: The complete guideHistory of Mountain ClimbingTouching the Void - Joe SimpsonThe Beckoning Silence - Joe SimpsonDark Shadows Falling - Joe SimpsonStorms of Silence - Joe SimpsonClimbing High - the Everest DisasterThe Climb - Anatoli BoukreevInto Thin Air - the Everest DisasterConquest of Everest A Mountaineer's Tale - W.H.MurrayReturn to Everest - DVD Return to Everest - Video Lost on Everest - Video Mountain Leadership Handbook of Climbing - Hamish MacInnesClimbing Free: My Life in the Vertical WorldDougal Haston: Philosophy of RiskEverest: A Trekkers Guide Trekking in the Annapurna RegionMountains of the Mind - A history..Mountains of the Mind - ExperiencesEverest: Summit of AchievementEverest: 50th Anniversary VolumeEverest: Alone at the SummitThe Villain: Life of Don WhillansLeft for Dead: Journey Home from EverestTrekking in the Everest RegionTenzing Norgay: Touching my Father's SoulBelow another Sky by Rick RidgewayFacing Up; A journey to the summit of EverestLost Mountains - Climbs in the Himalayas - Stephen Venables A Slender Thread - Escaping Disaster in the Himalayas - Stephen Venables Himalaya Everest: To the Top

Coronation Everest Alpine / Himalayan Climbing Everest Pioneer - Photos of Captain John Noel Himalaya Map - NellesNepal Trail Map - Nelles Cho OyuHimalayan Quest - the 8000m Giants Climbing the World's 14 Highest Mountains










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