Hinku & Hongu Valleys:
Day by Day Route Descriptions
1. By plane from Kathmandu to Lukla
2.
A half day walk through forests to the
large boulders at Chutanga
amid birch and rhododendron.
3.
A steep climb to the cairns and prayer
flags of the Zatrwa La ( c4000metres ).
Cross the broad top and descend over boulder strewn moorland.
Camp at the large shelterstones at Tuli Kharka
4.
Traverse down and round to a col for
good view of the South Face of Mera Peak
rising above the Hinku Valley.
Continue down through rhododendron and pine and encamp on
riverside
at the clearing of Tashing Ongma.
5.
Proceed upstream along the western bank
of the river through old
lichen-covered forest to emerge onto open moorland with shrub
juniper.
Continue past a small gompa embedded beneath a huge overhang to
the
stone-walled fields and huts at the yak pastures of Tagnag in a
superb
situation beneath Mera to the east and Peak 43 to the west.
6. Rest day/ exploration
7.
Climb from the valley floor onto a
moraine wall and continue past the Sabai Tsho
glacier lake up to Dig Kare in a small, boulder-strewn
amphitheatre overlooking
Mera West Peak
8.
Climb over scree slopes and boulder
fields to the snout of the glacier and onto
crevassed snow slopes leading in an arc up to the Mera La.
There are spectacular views across to Thamserku and Kang Taiga.
Descend on the far side of the col for some 100metres and encamp
on gravel
flats amongst bare rock beds beneath the snow slopes of Nau Lekh.
9.
From col ascend crevassed snowfields of
broad ridge and make a high camp at
an outcrop of rocks ( c5800metres ). ( 1/2 day )
10.
Continue over open snowfields towards
the Central Summit at the head of a glacier
bay flanked by two ridges. Climb beneath the eastern ridge onto
the final, steeper,
section leading up to the summit ( c6400metres )
Outstanding viewpoint including 5 of the world's 6 highest peaks:-
Kangchenjunga,
Makalu, Lhotse, Everest, Cho Oyu.
11.
From base camp descend over bare, rock
beds and scree slopes into a wide,
sandy basin. Continue over green, grassy hillsides heading north-east
and
encamp beside stream in pleasant meadow overlooked by Peak 41 and
Chamlang.
12.
Climb on faint trail to cross spur.
Continue past a small lochan and make a long,
descending traverse across steep hillside down to the banks of
the Hongu Khola.
Views of Chonku Chuli.
Camp amid shrub juniper and azalea near ruins of stone hut.
13.
Proceed up valley alongside the river.
Cross to eastern bank and continue beyond
a large lake for a short distance before making camp in tussock-grass
above the
river. ( Site of Base Camps for Baruntse climbing expeditions )
14.
Rest day/ climb rock peak ( c5800metres
) above campsite for excellent viewpoint:
Chamlang, Chonku Chuli, West Col, Makalu, Baruntse, Mingbo La,
Ama Dablam,
Hongu South Peak, Hongu Panch Pokhari, Amphu Labtse., Nuptse.
15.
Proceed up valley over hillocks and
open moorland onto crest of a lateral moraine.
Continue to reach the Panch Pokhari. ( 1/2 day )
Views ahead of Everest and Lhotse and over glacier lake to West
Col.
16.
Rest day/ climb rock peak above lakes
for fine viewpoint:- ice-cliffs of Baruntse,
across to Chonku Chuli and Chamlang, down the Hongu Valley.
17.
Return down valley and climb westwards
into a side-valley, following small cairns
over rough moraine and encamp near the large glacier lake at the
foot of the Hinku
Nup Glacier in a spectacular setting in a large amphitheatre
encircled by high peaks
and tumbling ice-falls.
18.
Climb above lake onto glacier and
ascend on easy-angled, crevassed snowfields to
the Mingbo La.
Views across Hongu Valley to Chamlang and ahead to Ama Dablam
rising beyond
the pass.
Abseil down ice-flutings and across bergschrund on the western
side of col
( 4 rope lengths - c100metres ).
Camp on level neve of the Nare Glacier directly beneath Ama
Dablam.
19.
Easy walk down glacier with spectacular
view back to Mingbo La and the
ice-flutings of the Mingbo Peaks. View ahead to Kang Taiga and of
Pharchoma
on the far horizon.
Descend ice-cliffs and rocks at the snout of glacier ( ropes,
ice-screws,
ice-stakes
required )
Continue down over bare rock beds and encamp on gravel flats.
20.
Continue down over moraine and scree.
Ama Dablam directly above.
View up to Taboche.
Long descent to Imja Khola.
Camp on riverside on eastern bank of river below Pangboche.
View up to Lhotse.
21.
From main trail climb above Pangboche
and take a high route along the steep
valleyside above the Imja Khola with views across to Kang Taiga.
Continue
beyond Phortse and descend to camp beside the Dudh Khosi.
22.
Climb on main trail from Gokyo up to
col.
Good viewpoint for Kang Taiga and Thamserku.
Descend and continue to Namche Bazaar.
Good views of Kwande Ri.
23. Walk down Dudh Khosi valley to Phakding.
24. Continue down to Lukla. ( 1/2 day )
25. By plane from Lukla to Kathmandu.
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