A Guide to the European Alps

Three members of the Bearsden Venture Scout Unit — James Cullen, Colin Deuchars and Alan Ingram — recently returned from a four-week mountaineering tour of Alpine Europe in
which they climbed four of the major peaks.
Travelling by a Ford Transit minibus, they ﬁrst visited the Zillertal Alps in Austria where, due to excessive snow conditions they were only able to climb a minor peak, the Am Horn (8,803ft).
However this was to be compensated for by fine conditions on subsequent climbs.

The Ortler:

From Austria, the party travelled to Solden in Stelvio National Park of Northern Italy.
Although there was a severe thunderstorm in the evening of arrival, the followng morning dawned clear with magnificent views of the surrounding alpine peaks
including their ojective, The Ortler, the highest at 12,691 feet.
The climbing sacks were packed and the convenient local chairlift used to attain altitude on the ascent to the Payer Hutte at a height of 9,815 feet.
At the hut, two other parties were met who also planned to tackle the Ortler. It was learned that no ascent had yet been made this year.
The next morning, the party roped up and set off from the hut at 3.30 a.m.
The route first traversed a snow field, contoured round a rocky outcrop of the main ridge, then descended abruptly before the main ascent.
This was up steep snow fields, made strenuous due to the softness of the snow - too soft for the use of crampons.
A crevassed zone led to a final steep ascent to the summit and a fine panorama.

Finsteraarhorn:

The next climb was to be the Finsteraarhorn in Switzerland.
The journey involved the crossing of several of the major Alpine road passes including the Stelvia ( 8957ft ) and Furka ( 7901ft ).
The Finsteraarhorn at 13,890 feet is one of the select group of over 4000m peaks in Europe and is the highest in the Bernese Oberlands.
One of the difficulties involved is the remoteness of the peak.
The traditional long approach from the village of Fiesch was taken. This required a long, all-day, 10-hour glacier ascent, meandering around
and across numerous crevasses and ice falls to reach the hut situated at the foot of the mountain.
Fortunately the fine weather continued and, after another 3.30 a.m. start, the party set off on the ascent of the Finsteraarhorn. This time they
were the only party on the mountain.
During the night the sky had remained clear and the snow was frozen hard, allowing crampons to be used.
This enabled a speedy ascent up the steep snow fields above the hut to a rocky ridge.
An interesting traverse of the ridge in a strong wind, typically experienced in high altitude climbing, brought tte party to
the summit, and another fine panorama including such well-known peaks as Monch, Jungfrau and the Eiger - the next on the itinerary.
Some problems were experienced in the descent in crossing crevasses and from potential avalanche prone slopes due to the softening of the snow in the fierce sun.

The Eiger:

Another day was taken in the walk out from the Finsteraarhorn hut and another in travelling around to the village of Lauterbrunnen
beneath the Eiger.
The weather had now deteriorated, but this was actually appreciated as this enforced two rest days before the next climb could be undertaken.
On the third day the sky cleared and in the evening the last train was taken to Kleine Scheidegg and then to the Elgergletcher station where
bunkhouse accommodation was used.
There were two other parties at breakfast - one destined for the Monch and the other for the Jungfrau.
Although photographs, maps and guidebooks had been well-studied, it was with some trepidation that the party roped
up and started the ascent of the Eiger such is its reputation.
The route was the West Ridge, the "normal" route, and the one used for descent by North Face climbers.
Again snow conditions were favourable and crampons were used to ascend two snow fields leading to the rocky west ridge overlooking the North Face.
The ridge was followed, affording spectacular views of the Face before a step in the ridge was turned by traversing onto steep snow slopes which
continued to the summit at 12,902 feet.
The weather was exceptionally fine, and yet again, an excellent view over the peaks of the Bernese Oberlands was obtained - the Finsteraarhorn standing in
splendid isolation, the monarch of the Bernese Oberlands, Monch the neighbouring peak and Jungfrau next to Monch.

Mont Blanc:

The final climb in the programme was Mont Blanc at 15,623 feet, the highest in Western Europe.
From Lauterbrunnen the party drove through Switzerland and over the Forclaz Pass into France and down to Chamonix where they made camp.
Although the next day the weather continued to be good, the party lelt disinclined for the early start required for the two-day ascent and a rest day was enjoyed.
The first tram at 7.20 a.m. on the Mont Bianc mountain railway was then taken from Le Fayet on the subsequent day and this duly reached its
terminus at the foot of the Bionnassy Glacier at a height of 1709 feet.
A short climb led to a first hut at Tete Rouge at a height of 10,293 feet.
From there, a further 2,000 ft climb had to be undertaken but this time involving the crossing a dangerous couloir and the ascent of a steep rocky ridge, leading to the second
hut — Refuge de Gouter at 12,555 ft where the night was spent.
The weather had drastically deteriorated, having clouded over with a strong wind blowing and it was snowing heavily - not at all auspicious.
At the normal start time of 2.00 a.m. the conditions were still bad. However, at 4.00 a.m., the clouds cleared and the climb was begun.

Normal route of ascent on Mont Blanc

It was still dark and torchies were used for the initial period .
From the hut, the route first ascended the steep slopes of the Dome, an outlier of Mont Blanc, before contouring round to Les Bosses, the fine snow ridge leading
to the summit.
A breather was taken on reaching Refuge Vallot, a small emergency shelter at the foot of Les Bosses.
The climb had now taken the party up through the clouds into the welcome rising morning sun.
A strenuous climb up the Les Bosses through the deep, fresh snow led to a final knife-edge ridge to the summit.
Only the tops of other major peaks were to be seen protruding above the sea of clouds including that of the Aiguille du Midi.

A leisurely four-day drive brought the party back -to Bearsden. This had been the sixth such Alplne expedltlon by members of the Unit.